Can anyone recommend any outstanding restaurant reviewers?

vombatidae

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I'm looking for some outstanding restaurant reviewers - in particular those who go beyond simply describing the food. For example reviewers who do a good job telling a story - how the restaurant came to be or some information about the culture the food represents or even a small bio of the chef or restaurant owner.

I have found some select articles and such but am hugry (yep I did it - I wrote the awful pun) for more. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them.
 

Bubastes

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She's no longer a restaurant reviewer, but Ruth Reichl is excellent. I also like Jonathan Gold and Corby Kummer.

Are you looking specifically for restaurant reviews, or are you interested in food writing in general?
 

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This probably isn't QUITE what you're looking for -- but there's a terrific book from the Library of America called American Food Writing, edited by Molly O'Neill. It's got all sorts of great pieces from the last 250 years in American writing, where you can read Herman Melville waxing eloquent on the hot dog, William Styron writing about fried chicken . . . well, the list goes on and on.

It's not necessarily about the history of restaurants, but it's a great showcase of short pieces that transcend mere reviews.

I haven't even read the entire thing, and I dig this book.

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vombatidae

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She's no longer a restaurant reviewer, but Ruth Reichl is excellent. I also like Jonathan Gold and Corby Kummer.
Thanks. I'll see what I can find of their writing.


This probably isn't QUITE what you're looking for -- but there's a terrific book from the Library of America called American Food Writing, edited by Molly O'Neill
I'm looking for restaurant reviews but food writing is closely related and I'll check out that book. I've read more food writing than restaurant reviews over the years so I'm more familiar with it but even so I think that is worth a read.
 

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Restaurant reviews are in such a short format, so it's hard to include much information beyond the food. Also, it serves a specific purpose: to help people decide whether to eat there. Some people do an excellent job within those restrictions, though. I tried writing a few reviews for practice and gave up.

What food writing have you read? There so much good stuff out there that I have a tough time staying current.
 

vombatidae

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I've read lots of Mark Bittman, Mark Kurlansky's "Salt", Ruth Reichl, other assorted pieces/writers over the years. I honestly didn't ay too much attention until very recently and hadn't made note of many no matter how good they were.
 

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If you haven't read Michael Ruhlman, do so, especially Soul of a Chef if you're looking for more in-depth restaurant writing. He does a fantastic job writing about French Laundry and Lola in that book.

Also, there's a Best Food Writing anthology that comes out every year. It contains both restaurant reviews and food articles.