I've done some stone sculpting before, so I can answer from experience!
I've never touched granite, because it's an excruciatingly hard stone and I don't have the time, patience, or inclination. However, what I can help you with is some of the problems an artist might face when looking for the 'perfect stone,' and some information about the carve itself.
The main concern one might have about a stone is its flaws. picking the 'perfect' stone is impossible, but minimizing heartache is pretty easy. I used to rub graphite on my stones to look for cracks I couldn't see with my eye, because it was easy enough to rinse off, and disappeared anyway when chipped into. You don't want to get 3/4 of the way through a carve, especially on a difficult material like granite, and then have a good portion of your sculpture break off.
Some faults can be worked away. Put them on the side of your sculpture you intend to get rid of, anyway. Some stones have weak points that go right down the middle. You want to avoid those, because you don't know where they go.
Your sculptor will also want to make his own tools. I use re-bar, which is the stuff they put in streets and sidewalks to strengthen it. This can be an interesting process to include, as it does take some time, and adds to the time it'll take to sculpt.
You need tools that are malleable and not breakable. If you stick a piece of rebar in water to cool it off, it cools fast, but as soon as you hit it with a hammer to shape it, it'll shatter. You need to hammer the metal into the shape you want it when it's nearly molten, then let it air-cool. And! After you've hammered it out into the shape you want, heat it up again to cherry red and let it air-cool again. Very important. That's called annealing.
I'd look up "hand-made stone sculpting tools" in google images to get an idea of what your sculptor would be making. For granite, you'll see a lot of tools that are grooved, because this makes material easier to remove from the block of hard stone. It also distributes pressure your your tools don't crack or bend in the process. See how tiny they are, too? The use of these tools also adds time to the process. You're chipping away tiny, tiny pieces at a time, with super-gentle taps, so as not to accidentally crack the stone.
Making even the slightest progress would take hours of dedicated time. You're not going to see any features emerge from your block of granite on the first day, or even the first week. You'd be concentrating on stripping it down to a more workable shape.
When I start, I actually draw the areas I'm chipping away entirely on the stone with pencil. make circles. Start with the broadest areas and work to the tiny ones. And remember, you can't just break these off, or you'll damage your stone! They have to be worked away carefully and slowly.
Unlike the great Renaissance artists, (if your sculptor is modern, that is!) You also have tools like dremels at your disposal to make refining your carve a little easier. If your artist is more traditional, then you can use sandpaper, starting with the roughest (largest grit) and working down to fine. This is call polishing, and could take weeks all by itself.
Depending on your level of detail, it could take years to work a granite sculpture into a form you prefer. If your artist needs something faster, you might consider trying alabaster, and then doing something like covering the finished statue in bronze. I worked in alabaster a lot. It still took weeks, sometimes months, to get the sculpture where I wanted it, but I didn't have to worry as much about shattering the stone.
Lately, I work a lot smaller, because it's less heartbreaking when something goes wrong. And it will go wrong, by the way. It's very realistic to have your artist reject a stone or two, and then maybe even break one, before he finds one that works.
Even Michelangelo broke stones.
Good luck!