Sewing clothes

harmonyisarine

Super Member
Registered
Joined
May 15, 2014
Messages
349
Reaction score
29
Location
Farmlands of Western PA
Thanks for the warning, Orianna. I'll make sure to check if I do buy the hardcopy.

In other news, I was cleaning out two people's worth of sewing stuff I inherited, and I found three sewing books! All newer, but I've already learned a good deal. One is how to do tricksy things with your sewing machine, one is how to do tricksy things with your serger, and one is how to set up an efficient sewing area in even the smallest spaces (very relevant to my interests). I also sorted through all of the thread and have at least a year before I need to buy any more, and ended up getting rid of a full-size laundry basket worth of stuff that was either severely outdated (do not need giant shoulderpads anymore, actually...) or just things that don't work anymore. Lots and lots of old, dull, short pins. I've spoiled myself with the extra long Dritz ones with the giant pearlized head. I can never go back.
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
I learned that those short pins (at least the ones I had) are actually ballpoint pins, which are only meant for knit fabrics! I didn't realize that when I bought them, Now I have four different boxes of pins, for different purposes: ballpoints (for knits), long pearl-heads (for regular and thick fabrics), extra-fine glass-heads (for delicate fabrics and pinning while I press), and applique pins (extra short, for sewing doll clothes or baby clothes).

The extra fine glass-heads are my new favorite! They're very long and thin, so they don't leave marks in silk, or other delicate fabrics. They are surprisingly sturdy, too. I was always bending my ballpoint pins, ruining them, but in spite of their thinness, the glass-head pins don't get bent, unless you try pinning through several layers of denim. I highly recommend them.

Also, dull pins can be resurrected. You know the little strawberry that hangs off your pincushion? It's filled with emery, which will sharpen pins and needles. Just stab the dull pin into the strawberry a few times and it will sharpen it. (A lot of my students don't realize that's what the strawberry is for. They think it's just decorative!)
 

Maryn

Sees All
Staff member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Kind Benefactor
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
55,429
Reaction score
25,447
Location
Snow Cave
I thought of this thread yesterday when a woman shared a little story about sewing.

Her lifelong interest in the craft began when she was about eight. She asked her mother if she could have a particular piece of cloth from her mother's stash. (We all have a stash, right?) Mom said yes. The little girl laid the cloth flat on the floor and outlined her body with chalk as best she could, cut on the lines, and sewed herself a sunsuit which was, of course, way too tight since she's not added any seam allowance.

She was nevertheless terribly pleased with herself and her mother took her to a sewing store where they bought a few beginner patterns and some cloth that was just hers.

Maryn, who loved the visual of this little girl tracing herself
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
How funny!

When I first began sewing, I didn't realize you had to stitch the garment inside-out, so the seams would be hidden. All of my early doll clothes had the seam allowances flapping on the outside, which frustrated me to no end, because they didn't look like "real" clothes do. One day, Mom explained the secret of sewing with right-sides together, and it was such a huge light bulb moment! That's the day I fell in love with sewing.
 

harmonyisarine

Super Member
Registered
Joined
May 15, 2014
Messages
349
Reaction score
29
Location
Farmlands of Western PA
I always wondered how to resurrect dull pins! I'm still not sad about throwing the short ones away, they were all bent and weird, but I'll have to get some ballpoint pins and the longer glass headed ones. Do they sell those at JoAnns, or will I have to go online? I do a lot of silk sewing and it'd be nice to have pins that would hurt it less.

I actually hate sewing, a lot of times. But I really love designing and the results, so the effort of sewing is well worth it.
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
You can get most types of pins at any fabric store. JoAnn's should have them. If they're out, you can get them from Amazon for a reasonable price.

I have a love-hate relationship with sewing, too. Sometimes, it's my favorite thing in the world and I'll spend hours in my sewing room, drafting doll patterns, or sewing pincushions, or whatever. Other times, I get sick of sewing and I'll do everything I can to avoid it. It's bizarre! I always love buying fabrics and trims, though. I can plan a new project, and buy what I need, without any trouble, but when it's time to sit down and start sewing, sometimes I hesitate. It's why my portfolio isn't very full. My "to-do" list is huge, but my "finished" list . . . not so much.

If you're a designer, do you have Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers? It's one of my favorite sewing books, because it details every technique you need to know to construct a garment from start to finish. It's written for designers, so it teaches you how to plan your garments out, and how to choose which techniques to use, as well as how to sew everything. I learned so much from it! It's expensive, but highly recommended.
 

Maryn

Sees All
Staff member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Kind Benefactor
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
55,429
Reaction score
25,447
Location
Snow Cave
I've hit a point where I struggle to fit the body I actually have, so while my fabric stash is mostly for apparel, I'm not making clothes these days. I do rock a pillow case, though.

I usually sew something for Christmas gifts. I'm thinking pajamas for our daughters, since they don't have to fit all that well. Or bathrobes? I dunno.

Maryn, with several incomplete-doesn't-fit projects strewn about
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
I usually have my students start with something very simple, like an elastic-waist skirt or pajama pants. They're easy to sew, and they don't usually require much fitting. That said, I did have one student make a mockup for pajama pants that ended up being very long in the crotch. The crotch seam was hanging halfway to her knees! So we shifted everything up, removed the excess from the waist and added it back to the legs. They ended up fitting perfectly after that!

So, even pajama pants can sometimes need adjusting. It's why I always insist on my students making mockups, so they can learn the sewing techniques involved and make sure the garment fits properly before using their "good" fabric.
 

Maryn

Sees All
Staff member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Kind Benefactor
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
55,429
Reaction score
25,447
Location
Snow Cave
Every once in a while fabric I buy online is not what I thought it was going to be--a knit with a cheap hand, a cotton that's hopelesslly wrinkley, a linen that isn't lavender but quite pink, like that. Sometimes I keep it rather than return because you need something to make your practice pieces.

Maryn, who should get busy
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
Most of the time, I use unbleached muslin (very cheap), or even old sheets that I cut up to use for mockups. But sometimes you need a specific kind of fabric, like a stretchy knit jersey for a sweater mockup, or a heavy upholstery fabric for a coat mockup---fabrics that muslin just can't replace. That's when having a huge stash comes in handy!

"Yes, dear . . . I really do need three dressers and eight bins full of fabric! Honest!"

I actually have one plastic bin and a cardboard box that are filled with fabric I'm trying to get rid of. But there's still more fabric in the bins I'm keeping than I'll ever sew in a lifetime! And yet, I can't get rid of it, because most of it was so hard to find. It took me years to build this stash! And more money than I care to admit. But if I ever feel like making an uncut corduroy coat with a charmeuse lining, I have exactly what I need. . . .
 

Maryn

Sees All
Staff member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Kind Benefactor
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
55,429
Reaction score
25,447
Location
Snow Cave
My medium-sized city has a place one can donate fabric, findings, and crafts materials, including incomplete sewing projects (as long as all the cut pieces are there). It benefits a senior community which accepts everyone, so I feel I'm doing good. And I never donate without also stopping in at their store and buying something.

Other potential places to unload fabric include community theatres and high school drama departments which make their own costumes.

Speaking of charmeuse, any tips on sewing with it? I have two lovely lengths, different black-and-white prints, which I intend to use for robes I leave out for guests, but I vividly remember the last time I worked with charmeuse. The damned stuff snagged as I machine stitched it, sometimes even from inserting a pin. Any particular needle and/or pin type I should be using?

Maryn, still lots to learn
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
I don't work with charmeuse a lot, but you definitely need silk pins--something like these. They're much finer and less likely to snag your fabric. Try to only pin within the seam allowances, too, so if it does snag, it won't show. (This means placing your pins parallel to the edge of the fabric, not perpendicular.)

You also need a small needle (probably #9) and make sure it's brand new. Lots of people don't change their needles often, but you need a new needle for every new project--not only because every project will use different types and weights of fabrics, therefore requiring a different type of needle, but also because needles get dull. A dull needle will snag, and leave holes, and can lead to all kinds of problems, like thread tangling and snarling. The general guide is a new needle for every eight hours of sewing, or for every new project.

Also, when cutting, use mini clothespins or binder clips to hold the edges of the fabric together. Keeps the layers from shifting, so you can cut without all the aggravation. When sewing, you can use tissue or stabilizer to help keep it from sliding all over the place. This will help prevent the fabric from getting pulled into the feed dogs, too. (This happens to me a lot! If you can manage to remove the fabric without tearing it, chances are good it'll be stained with grease. The solution is to stabilize the fabric before trying to sew. And don't start sewing at the very edge of the seam, shift the fabric up, so the edge isn't right under the needle. That can help prevent it from getting eaten, too.)
 

Maryn

Sees All
Staff member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Kind Benefactor
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
55,429
Reaction score
25,447
Location
Snow Cave
Good tips all, and many new to me. I haven't yet dared to cut the robes, remembering my last outing with charmeuse. We shall see!

Maryn, with gratitude
 

harmonyisarine

Super Member
Registered
Joined
May 15, 2014
Messages
349
Reaction score
29
Location
Farmlands of Western PA
I've now got three or four large plastic totes of fabric. And I just bought more that was on a 50% off sale from Mood. Lovely wool blend with a green/teal diamond pattern. I definitely didn't need it. I have too much already.

Soon I get a sewing room! My brother's in the Navy and finally got his orders to go to OCS. He leaves in late November, and then that room is going to have the old carpet torn up and I'm going to move all the sewing stuff in there. I'll be much more productive, as the current arrangement is that my bedroom is half sewing room.

Orianna, I'm sort of a self-taught designer. I'm reading as much as I can, and have that as one of my creative "hobby with potential" back-ups in case getting back into graduate school for biology doesn't work out (right next to writing). I plan on designing stuff for me even if I do get into school. I'm a huge nerd and can never find clothes I like that are also nerdy, unless they involve a huge logo or are a costume. Don't get me wrong, I love costumes and I'm about to get started on dyeing fabric for a huge group cosplay, but I would prefer some daily wear clothes that hint at the nerd wearing them. As such, I've filled a sketchbook with designs. I've got a lot of the basics, but I'm still woefully uneducated in this. That book would be great. I think I'll put it on a wishlist for holidays....
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
I've got several fabrics in my Fabric.com shopping cart, but I keep putting off buying them, because I don't really need them. But they're so pretty. . . . And I could use them, someday. Maybe. I dunno. Fabric shopping is addictive!

I don't really design clothing. Well, I designed and sewed a custom Victorian ballgown, and I design couture doll clothing, and I'm hoping to start a business selling my doll patterns, but I just don't like sewing full-sized clothing. It feels like a lot more work, and it's hard to make things fit properly. (I have several fitting issues that make sewing more difficult.) But I try to make a few pieces each year, to keep my skills honed, since that's what I teach.

If you're creating a sewing room from scratch, you might find Dream Sewing Spaces useful. I have a copy that I loan to all my new students. It's filled with great advice for organizing your sewing space, whether you have a small nook or closet, or an entire studio. Very helpful!

Also, last year I wrote an article on how to organize your sewing area, which was published by an online magazine. I'd be happy to send it to you privately, if you're interested.
 

harmonyisarine

Super Member
Registered
Joined
May 15, 2014
Messages
349
Reaction score
29
Location
Farmlands of Western PA
I got my Mood fabric today. It's so lovely. Heavier weight. I'm going to make a very cozy slouchy coat out of it, with some kind of fun lapel detail. I also got 4 free swatches with my order and, against my better judgement, picked some from a fabric that is 46.00 a yard, a lovely wool/silk blend in a satin weave. It's perfect for a project I have in mind, but so expensive!

Also, last year I wrote an article on how to organize your sewing area, which was published by an online magazine. I'd be happy to send it to you privately, if you're interested.

That would be great. I found a little pamphlet in one of our sewing books, but more information is always better.
 

Yasaibatake

is her own imaginary friend
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Messages
1,735
Reaction score
188
Location
KC
*wanders into thread* Am I still allowed in here if I haven't made clothing in a long while? That's how I learned to sew though! When I was little, my mom would sew but refused to teach me how. My grandma showed me some related skills (cross-stitch, embroidery, etc.) but that was it. It wasn't until I was in college, wandering around trying to decide what to do with my life, that I decided to take a fashion design class. I like fashion and clothing, so why not?

My teacher hated me because it was so blatantly obvious I had no idea what I was doing and I had a bit of a "whatever, I'm still learning so back off" attitude about it - the first project I turned in was so atrocious, I'm embarrassed I let anyone else see it. It was this horribly misshapen box of a "shirt" made from the cheapest green broadcloth I could find...I kinda hope I still have it somewhere, actually, just so I can use it as the world's worst "before" example! But the girl across from me was very sweet and patient - and very, very skilled. We used to joke that if you put the two of us together, we'd make a great fashion designer. She sewed beautifully but really struggled understanding color, shape, or anything like that; my talent was stabbing myself with the straight pins but I had a portfolio of ideas half the class wanted to buy right then and there. With her help, my second project was an almost passable printed skirt, and my third project was a white halter dress that looked good enough I wore it to my then-boyfriend's college graduation :) I dropped out of the fashion design program after that but kept sewing on my own and I like to think I'm still getting better!

This last year or so, though, I've been mastering some basic quilting skills instead. There are two weddings in the family coming up in May, and my goal is to have a homemade quilt for both couples ready on their big days. I only started on the first one about two or three weeks ago though, and I don't have a lot of sewing time so it's going a bit slow. As in, this morning before work I finished block #12...for a queen sized quilt, there's a long way to go! But hopefully I'll have some more time coming up soon and if I really get the time, I'd love to make a dress to wear to the first wedding (I'm a bridesmaid in the second, so that'll probably be something I *have* to buy)...
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
You might enjoy the book I recommended earlier: Professional Sewing Techniques For Designers. It's a sewing textbook written specifically for designers. So it isn't just "how to sew," but "how to sew if you want this kind of look." It's expensive, but worth it! I learned a TON from it.

I'm not a quilter, but I do sew doll clothes. One thing I learned is the necessity for a 1/4" quilter's foot. Do you have one of those? It has a little guide bar on the side, so you can sew straight seams that are extremely narrow, just 1/4" wide--which is the standard seam allowance for both quilts and doll clothes.

Also, when it's time for you to bind your quilts, consider making your own binding. Store-bought bias binding is AWFUL! It cheapens whatever it's put on. But you can make your own very easily, especially with a bias tape maker, which is just a little tool that you slide your bias strips through as you press them. It automatically folds the strip into the right proportions for bias tape. Brilliant invention!

I hope you're able to finish your quilts in time. If I have a deadline, I'm always rushing at the last minute to get things done. And the closer I get to my deadline, the slower my progress seems to be! It's so frustrating. Like, one time I made a replica of a Victorian theater costume and wore it to the show it was from. Only I didn't finish in time, even with the help of two other people, so I actually had to be sewn into the bodice as we drove to the theater! It was awful. Of course, then a torrential downpour began and my costume was completely ruined by wind and rain. . . .

At any rate, I know what it's like to rush against a deadline, so I hope you're able to find the time to finish the quilts.
 

mirandashell

Banned
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
16,197
Reaction score
1,889
Location
England
I always think that bias binding made from either the same material or a material of similar quality looks best.
 

MaryMumsy

the original blond bombshell
Kind Benefactor
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jul 18, 2008
Messages
3,396
Reaction score
829
Location
Scottsdale, Arizona
I'm glad to see the continued interest in this thread. I still have made no progress in the direction of cutting out my skirt. But the urgency was mitigated by finding one that was almost perfect on Land's End website.

One of my biggest issues with sewing clothes is frustration. If something goes together perfectly the first time, great. If it doesn't, it will lie there till the fabric rots before I pick the seams apart and do it over.

I laughed at the story of being sewn into your bodice. Mine isn't quite that bad. I was asked to be a bridesmaid for a friend. All us girls sewed, so we made our dresses. Mine was done except the hem. That was in with scotch tape and safety pins. :D The bride told me: I knew L (her sister, the maid of honor) would finish hers well ahead so I couldn't bitch; I knew H (other bridesmaid) would be done with time to spare; I knew if you got yours done you would be in the wedding, otherwise you'd be a guest. It didn't help that the fabric was a really ugly avocado green satin, or that she chose a Vogue pattern. This was 1969. And the hem was never finished. I donated the dress to a woman I knew years later who made high end doll clothes.

MM
 
Last edited:

Yasaibatake

is her own imaginary friend
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Messages
1,735
Reaction score
188
Location
KC
Orianna, thanks! That book looks awesome! Maybe I can convince my boyfriend that should be my Christmas gift :D Along with a bias tape maker...never knew such a thing existed, but that seems like it would be awesome. I actually don't own a 1/4" quilter's foot, though I keep saying one would make my life easier. I actually mark in my seams with tailor's chalk now. Yeah, inventing more work for myself is definitely going to help get those quilts done in time, right?

I'm getting fairly fast at this star block though; it's not the only one I need for this particular quilt, but still! My goal (which is, honestly, probably more than I can realistically get done) is to have 20 blocks done by the end of Saturday. There's not much else going on between now and then, so maybe...
 

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer
Super Member
Registered
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
Messages
3,434
Reaction score
234
Location
USA
I get frustrated if I have to do the same thing twice. Like sleeves. Or pant cuffs. Last year, I bought a pair of really nice flannel pajama pants, but they're too long. They had nice cuffs, so I didn't want to just cut them shorter and hem them, so I did this elaborate thing where I shortened them above the cuff. I got one leg done, but not the other. And guess what? Now I don't remember how I did this elaborate hemming technique, so they're sitting in my sewing closet, with one leg hemmed and the other not! It upsets me, because I need winter pajamas really bad. I may have to undo the one that's already hemmed, then just hack them both off and hem them normally. At least that way, I'll have something to wear, even if it's not pretty.

The story about the bridesmaids dresses reminded me. . . . When my best friend got married, back when I was a teenager, she had a friend's sister sew our dresses. This "dressmaker" didn't bother taking measurements in person, she asked us to send them to her. My dress ended up being rather short, because apparently her idea of "waist to hem" was considerably different from mine, and so when we went for our first (and only) fitting, my dress was a lot shorter than it was supposed to be! (And she had the nerve to scold me, as if it was my fault!) The dresses were pretty, but they didn't fit well.

I didn't know her, but I suspect she just sewed for a hobby and was making the dresses as a favor for my friend. I still have the dress around here somewhere. . . . Now I want to flip it inside-out and see how well it's actually sewn. (Maybe that's mean, but I am curious. You can learn an awful lot about a dressmaker by looking inside the clothes she's made!)

Yasaibatake, bias tape makers are just a few dollars! They come in different sizes, so you can get a variety, depending on what size bias binding you intend to make. I use the 1" size for regular clothes, and the 1/4" size for doll clothes. (Apparently, there's even a 1/8" bias tape maker, but I've had trouble finding it.)

Oh, and there is an automatic bias tape maker machine! It's expensive, but if you do a lot of quilting, it might be worth it. You feed the strips into it, and it automatically folds and presses them for you.

The 1/4" quilter's foot isn't expensive. I think I paid $10 for mine at Amazon. Really a lifesaver! Check your bag of presser feet that came with your sewing machine. Sometimes they include the 1/4" foot. If not, here's a trick you can try. Measure your standard zigzag presser foot, the one that came with your sewing machine. Some of them are exactly 1/4" from the outer edge to the middle, where the needle goes. If it is, and you line your fabric up along the outer edge of the presser foot, it will sew a quarter-inch seam. (If it's close, but not exact, you can try moving your needle over. Put the needle down and measure from the edge of the foot to the needle, then shift the needle over until it's in the right place for a 1/4" seam.)